Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli, by Ted Merwin
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Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli, by Ted Merwin
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Winner, 2015 National Jewish Book Award presented by the Jewish Book CouncilFor much of the twentieth century, the New York Jewish deli was an iconic institution in both Jewish and American life. As a social space it rivaled—and in some ways surpassed—the synagogue as the primary gathering place for the Jewish community. In popular culture it has been the setting for classics like When Harry Met Sally. And today, after a long period languishing in the trenches of the hopelessly old-fashioned, it is experiencing a nostalgic resurgence. Pastrami on Rye is the first full-length history of the New York Jewish deli. The deli, argues Ted Merwin, reached its full flowering not in the immigrant period, as some might assume, but in the interwar era, when the children of Jewish immigrants celebrated the first flush of their success in America by downing sandwiches and cheesecake in theater district delis. But it was the kosher deli that followed Jews as they settled in the outer boroughs of the city, and that became the most tangible symbol of their continuing desire to maintain a connection to their heritage. Ultimately, upwardly mobile American Jews discarded the deli as they transitioned from outsider to insider status in the middle of the century. Now contemporary Jews are returning the deli to cult status as they seek to reclaim their cultural identities. Richly researched and compellingly told, Pastrami on Rye gives us the surprising story of a quintessential New York institution.
Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli, by Ted Merwin- Amazon Sales Rank: #119061 in Books
- Published on: 2015-10-06
- Released on: 2015-10-06
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.02" h x .75" w x 5.98" l, 1.05 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 256 pages
Review "Merwin has written a spectacularly funny, engaging and sharply analytical book."-Forward"Merwin’s tasty exploration of deli cuisine and culture also tracks larger shifts in the American Jewish experience, particularly in the post-World War II period when delis upstaged shuls as Jewish gathering places."-JTA"[Pastrami on Rye] is an entertaining work of merit, written in a fluent style that recalls Calvin Trillin at his foodie best and Ludwig Bemelmans at his most observant."-Santa Fe New Mexican "In Pastrami on Rye, Ted Merwin gamely sets out to show how American Jews evolved from the clannish immigrants of the late 1800s into well-heeled secularists who atone for their parents' assimilation through (mostly culinary) nostalgia."-The Times Literary Supplement,Samuel Ashworth"[Merwin's] writing is so lively and entertaining readers will forget they're being educated. The work is also an excellent example of a multidisciplinary approach--combining food studies, Judaic studies, history and sociology."-Reporter"Merwin has set out to trace the rise and fall of the delicatessen in American Jewish culture, using this analysis to help us understand the American-immigrant experience. He has been more than successful. By meticulous and thorough research, Merwin has shown that in the postwar migration to the suburbs, city neighborhoods fragmented and delis closed."-St. Louis Jewish Light"Merwin’s extraordinarily exhaustive research and his skill in selecting just the right fact, telling detail, quote, and anecdote makes this one of the most enjoyable, enlightening, fluid and fascinating food histories I've ever read. And it is my history, too, being one of those many Jews for whom the delicatessen and love of delicatessen foods is as much a part of my identity as the ethics and humanity my religion has taught me."-Arthur Schwartz,author of Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited "The fruit of more than ten years of research and writing, Mr. Merwin's account shows that delis have been a rich part of the story of Jewish assimilation in America."-The Economist“Merwin's long awaited history of the deli delivers like the best deli fress: this is a book that nails the mustard-slicked soulful flavor of this cultural gem, with a heft of academic substance that leaves the mind thoroughly satisfied (and the body starved for chopped liver).”-David Sax,author of The Tastemakers: Why We're Crazy for Cupcakes but Fed Up with Fondue"Combining a flair for anecdote with exhaustive research, Merwin has produced an exuberantly readable history of delis, and he reveals how their prepared foods helped free early twentieth-century women from daily kitchen drudgery. The very success of ethnic Jewish delicatessens led inevitably to cultural assimilation for Jews and to appreciative acceptance by Gentiles, and the delicatessen became indisputably an American institution."-Booklist"Ted Merwin... delivers a scholarly paean--like an ample but lean corned beef sandwich--to a vanishing New York ethnic icon."-New York Times "Metropolitan""Pastrami on Rye proves entertaining, provocative, and--appropriately--food for thought."-JewishBookCouncil.org“A comprehensive history of the New York deli from its European antecedent beginnings to what Ted Merwin calls the 'postgastronomic' deli we have today. After doing exhaustive research into the subject, Dr. Merwin has put his scholarly pen and thoughtful gaze to work to create this marvelous book. I got really hungry for pastrami reading this comprehensive story of the American deli. Now that is a sign of a great read.”-Joan Nathan,author of Quiches, Kugels and Couscous: My Search for Jewish Cooking in France"In Pastrami on Rye, author Ted Merwin captures the essence of the New York deli experience...Merwin offers a thoughtful, 'overstuffed' look at all aspects of the Jewish deli by examining the role of its food in America through, as he puts it, the 'greasy...gluttonous lens of the pastrami sandwich.' [A] delightful exploration of one of America's favorite culinary institutions."-Chicago Tribune"In Pastrami on Rye, Merwin finally addresses the pressing question overlooked in his first book on New York Jews (In Their Own Image): but where did they eat? This fun and informative examination of the New York Jewish deli is half history and half love story; batampte und geshmacht, with a heaping helping of sakhel—you’ll kvell before you plotz!"-Eric Michael Mazur,co-editor of God in the Details: American Religion in Popular Culture"A pleasing exercise in culinary and cultural history, evoking some favorite New York-centric comfort foods... [Merwin] does a solid job of locating the delicatessen... as a cultural and culinary center of New York Jewish life."-Kirkus Reviews"[V]ery well researched and enjoyable."-JWeekly.com “The writing is so lively and entertaining readers will forget they’re being educated. The work is also an excellent example of a multidisciplinary approach – combining food studies, Judaic studies, history and sociology.” -Long Island Jewish World "[A] cultural history of American Judaism told through a particularly revealing culinary lens.”-Haaretz"Pastrami on Rye is both a celebration of the deli and an elegy for it. This lively book traces the deli’s evolution from dynamic gathering place to kitschy tourist site, peppered with hefty doses of popular culture. Merwin tells a fascinating story of cultural and culinary assimilation as he explores what it means to be modern and American. This book left me longing for the lost delis of my youth!"-Darra Goldstein,Founding Editor, Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture"Try reading Ted Merwin’s new book, Pastrami on Rye without having your mouth water. Merwin offers plenty of delicious descriptions as he traces how delis rose up first as take-out services for Jewish immigrants, to gathering places for Jewish communities, to symbols of integration — as pastrami piled high became popular nationwide."-New York Post"Brings together a vast range of scholarship and anecdote to produce the first comprehensive history of the Jewish delicatessen. Both culinary and cultural history, this book will be of interest to scholars and common readers alike, the former for its incisive interpretations of modern Jewish foodways and the latter for its ability to recreate a time and place that was 'home' for so many 20th century Jews in America. Its evocation of deli menus alone will get your mouth watering."-David Kraemer,author of Jewish Eating and Jewish Identity Through the Ages"[An] affable dive into the culture and history of the Jewish deli."-New York Times Book Review
About the Author Ted Merwin is Associate Professor of Religion and Judaic Studies at Dickinson College (PA), where he is Founding Director of the Milton B. Asbell Center for Jewish Life. He writes about Jewish theater, dance, and food for the New York Jewish Week and other major newspapers and magazines.
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Most helpful customer reviews
10 of 11 people found the following review helpful. Delicious By Anonymouse Posin's deli in Washington, DC doesn't get a mention in Mr. Merwin's book but that was my deli. Walking distance. Great sandwiches and pastries. My most indelible deli memory, though, is of breakfast at Lenny's in Clearwater, FL, and the bowl of mini pastries that magically arrives at your table.Mr. Merwin writes about deli with love and good appetite but his daughter prefers Indian and Chinese. Deli isn't modern and it isn't fashionable, despite the recent spate of books and the excellent 2014 film "Deli Man." But the thing is, good deli food is delicious and the complex question to Mr. Merwin becomes: What are the relationships between the food, history, religion, and the deli experience and how can the deli be reintegrated into modern food, and perhaps religious, culture?Deli hasn't always meant the same thing and the book follows delicatessens from neighborhood purveyors of Eastern European kosher food to poor immigrants that became neighborhood meeting places that evolved into non-Kosher celebrity hangouts before dying off. Mr. Merwin's well-footnoted history book ends with the deli's decline into today's kitschy tourist destination. As an afterthought he then takes a very quick look at restaurants and food shops across the country that are trying to walk back toward an authentic deli experience tuned to the 21st century. (Hence "Deli Man.")The book is informative and enjoyable. It focuses on US deli shops, and not so much on the food itself or the nuances of Jewish food law. For that you want a companion cookbook and a dictionary."Pastrami on Rye" has been edited down to only 256 pages. I would like to see the 2-3 other chapters that have been sliced out.I received a review copy of "Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli" by Ted Merwin (NYU Press) through NetGalley.com.
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful. A Cult Status By Mr. August This is an unusual history of the Jewish Deli in America. In addition to its mouth-watering, cholesterol laden food, delis were a place to meet your friends, business associates and make a Jewish connection.The New York delis, like Katz's in Manhattan - think of the movie "When Harry Met Sally." and the fake orgasm scene, represent the best of the old time delis and the sense of belonging to a group. Forget the synagogue, the deli surpassed it as meeting place. The author contends that delis flourished in the interwar era, when successful Jews found a place to reunite with their heritage. Ted Merwin believes that the deli is experiencing a resurgence and developing a cult status. That may be true, but it's hard to find a good deli in most American cities and never, ever in small, rural towns! This book is about New York and is well researched.
13 of 16 people found the following review helpful. Meat too lean; bread too stale By Floridaguy I'm sorry to say it, but this book was extremely disappointing. It reads more like a dissertation than an appropriately colorful examination of the Jewish deli. The author says he spoke with dozens of deli owners and others in the business, yet the book utterly fails to capture the magic of eating - or even working - in a typical Jewish deli during the businesses' heydays of the 1950s and 1960s. Too much time is spent on the history - but not the operation - of touristy places in New York's theater district, but there's precious little about the neighborhood delis. Not one single anecdote or memory touches on that. What was it like to peruse some of those enormous menus, even in the neighborhood places, and be served at the deli counter or at a table? What was it like to work as a counterman or a cook or a server at these places? How did they train? What were their lives like? How did they get the mustard into those little paper cones? What was it like to struggle to keep these businesses alive amid sweeping demographic and economic change? Nothing. (And, if you're going to mention a neighborhood deli, even in passing, please tell us precisely where it was - so we might be able to match it to our recollections.) Instead, we get many redundant (and sometimes inaccurate) cultural generalities and lengthy diversions into music and movie scenes and who knows what all. This was a major lost opportunity. In terms of the Jewish deli, it should have gone easier on the scholarship and history, and heavier on the soul and experience.
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